Nestled in the straits between Michigan's Lower and Upper Peninsulas, Mackinac Island is like a postcard from the Victorian era, replete with turn-of-the-century pastel mansions, horse-drawn carriages, and the conspicuous absence of cars—they've been banned since 1898. A former fur-trading and fishing outpost, the 4-square-mile island reinvented itself in the mid-19th century as a summer resort for the well-heeled. But it’s not just a twee enclave. Since 80% of the island is designated as a state park, there's an abundance of natural beauty, with miles of interior trails set amid rolling bluffs and a scenic biking path that loops the isle. And when you're done exploring, you can bury your face in heaps of hand-paddled Mackinac fudge—a legend around these parts. Located just 420 miles northeast of Chicago, it's the quintessential Midwestern getaway, with plenty of attractions to fill a two-day visit. One surefire way to give yourself away as a tourist? Pronouncing the c at the end of Mackinac. It’s MACK-in-awe, never Mack-in-ack. That’s what I learned the weekend I became a “fudgie,” a term the islanders use to describe summer tourists who clog Main Street in search of fudge. Reports are mixed on whether that’s an insult or a term of endearment. What to Do Shop Main Street After stepping off the ferry, you’ll be funneled directly onto Main Street and into peril. Yield to the hordes of bicyclists and plodding horse-drawn carriages. Along Main Street, souvenir and T-shirt shops compete for real estate with artsy boutiques, restaurants, and bicycle liveries. The scent of warm chocolate hangs thick in the air thanks to more than 15 fudgeries situated along the street. Murdick’s is the original—first opening in 1887—but I prefer Joann’s selection of 29 flavors. Inside several of the shops, fudge makers put on a show as they push, flip, and thwack the molten chocolate with a hand paddle on cool marble slabs until it hardens into a solid log of fudge. Tip: Ask for a sample of fudge to help you decide; you can’t go wrong with turtle, chocolate-peanut butter, and double dark cherry–walnut. Bike the Island’s Lake Shore Boulevard There are three ways to get around the island: on foot, by bicycle, or via horse and buggy. I highly recommend renting a bike (or bringing your own on the ferry for a fee) and cruising the 8-mile paved path known as Lake Shore Boulevard that circumnavigates the island. The ride is flat, easy, and incredibly scenic as it runs mostly through Mackinac Island State Park, which was once the United States’s second national park after Yellowstone (it was eventually demoted to a state park). The bike trail hugs the impossibly turquoise water of the Straits of Mackinac. Tip: Stop for a photo op by Arch Rock in the southeast corner of the island. Fort Mackinac The only sounds that occasionally interrupt the quietude on Mackinac are the booms and blasts of cannons and rifles. Have no fear—the island’s not under siege by an army. Those are the sounds of historical reenactments at nearby Fort Mackinac, a military outpost for British and then American soldiers in the late 18th and 19th centuries. It’s one of the only sites in the US that saw action during the War of 1812, when a small cadre of Americans troops stationed here surrendered to the British. Situated high atop the island on a bluff, the fort was known as a “desirable station” among soldiers in the 19th century thanks to its panoramic views of the surrounding straits. You can tour the historic fort buildings, including the Soldiers’ Barracks, Post Schoolhouse, and Post Commissary. Tip: Grab a seat near the Parade Ground, a large open field in the center of the fort, to see soldiers in period garb march in formation and fire their rifles. The Grand Hotel The island’s pièce de résistance is the circa-1887 Grand Hotel, which sits high atop a bluff at the north end of town. Its porch, lined with sturdy columns, enjoys a reputation as one of the longest in the world. The hotel has welcomed five US presidents—Clinton, Bush, Ford, Kennedy, and Truman—and also served as the backdrop for two major motion pictures: This Time for Keeps and Somewhere in Time. The Grand Hotel is like a kooky great-aunt: undeniably glamorous but last deemed fashionable when Dwight D. Eisenhower was in office. Inside, there are lime-green velvet couches, blue star–patterned carpeting, and private telephone booths. Tip: Grab a drink at the penthouse bar and admire a 270-degree view of the island, or park yourself on a wicker rocking chair on the front porch to enjoy the blustery breeze. Where to Eat There are few places more scenic to take your morning coffee than on the back patio of J.L. Beanery, east of the town center along Main Street. This unassuming coffeehouse overlooks the marina and is just east enough to be somewhat removed from the tourist bustle. The owner, Al Johnson, might even swing by your table to chat for a few minutes. As for dinner, Yankee Rebel Tavern was cozy and old-school, with traditional American cuisine including pot roast and Black Angus filet. But my favorite meal of the weekend took place on the outdoor patio at the Pink Pony, a waterfront eatery with a menu of fresh seafood, steaks, and pasta dishes. Order the Chippewa broiled whitefish and tell 'em Jorie sent you. Where to Stay  In the 19th century, several charming B & Bs and boutique hotels popped up to accommodate overnight visitors. Many of them still remain in use today, such as The Mission House, Lake View, and Island House. They tend to be expensive, so look out for deals for a cheaper stay. The Grand Hotel will occasionally run a discounted package if you’re willing to travel midweek. If you want to stay off the island (and pay for a ferry ticket to visit Mackinac each day), you can stay in Saint Ignace in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula or Mackinaw City in the Lower Peninsula. Straits State Park, where I camped for the weekend, has forested campsites near the ferry docks and a killer view of the Mackinac Bridge. Getting There From Chicago, it’s a haul—about 420 miles. But the drive is scenic, flat, and really quite melodic, if you listen to Fleetwood Mac the whole way. There are three main ferry companies that provide service to the island’s Haldimand Bay from Saint Ignace and Mackinaw City: Shepler’s, Arnold Line, and Star Line, which also offers free parking. Book your ticket online to save a few extra dollars. The ferries run from May or June through the end of October to coincide with the island’s peak tourism season. Outside of those months, you can say a quick prayer and board a six-seater plane in Saint Ignace to fly to Mackinac Island ($24 each way) or say a long prayer and snowmobile across the strait when it freezes over in February. Photo: © Jorie Larsen, Groupon