The right piece of jewelry can elevate a plain outfit into something worthy of an editorial spread. But whether you go for bold gold statement necklaces or delicate silver rings, it’s important to consider the qualities and characteristics of fine metal jewelry, especially before making a high-end purchase. This guide outlines the pros and cons of common metal types, and also helps you choose the right necklace chain and length.

Basic Jewelry Metals

There are six main types of metal used to make jewelry:

1. Gold
2. Rose gold
3. White gold
4. Platinum
5. Sterling silver
6. Stainless steel

Gold

Gold is one of the oldest fine metals in the world and certainly the most recognizable. But in its pure state, it’s too soft for jewelry. To boost its strength, it’s mixed—also known as alloyed—with other metals. That’s how you get rose gold and white gold.

Platinum, Silver, and Stainless Steel

Platinum is the rarest of the fine metals, and it’s also the most expensive. The cost comes along with benefits, though: platinum is very durable and also hypoallergenic, since it’s not mixed with other metals. Sterling silver and stainless steel have a very similar silver look, but they’re much less expensive.

Solid vs. Plating

To get a high-end look without the high-end price, jewelry makers will sometimes plate pieces. To do this, they take a less expensive material, like brass, and cover it with a thin layer of fine metal. This technique is most often used for fashion jewelry because the plating will wear away over time. Plated jewelry is not a good investment for an engagement ring, but it’s ideal if you’re looking for a trendy statement piece.

Karats

Karats with a K is the measure of gold in jewelry. The higher the karat number, the higher the percentage of pure gold, and the more valuable it is.

Necklaces, Chains, and Pendants

Will you be wearing the chain on its own or with a pendant? Do you want the necklace to hit at your sternum or your collarbone? These are just a couple of questions to consider when buying a necklace.

Style

A chain designed to be worn on its own is more likely to be thicker and more intricately woven, like a Byzantine chain. If you’re going to wear a chain with a pendant, a thinner cable or box chain is a better choice.

Length

The most popular chain length is 18” for women and 20” or 24” for men. That’s just long enough to fall in the middle of the average person’s chest. A 16” chain is considered normal for children, but it’ll fit very close to the collarbone on an adult. You can also go much longer; a 30” or 36” chain is great for layering or wrapping.

Pendant Sizing

Because it’s so small, jewelry is almost exclusively measured in millimeters, but that can be hard to visualize without a reference point. Keep these common-coin sizes in mind for your next pendant purchase:

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